In about 20 minutes it switched to Absorb charge at 60 amps. Inverter/charger display shows Bulk charge at + 90 amps. As soon as I got it parked I switched to shore power and turned ref off. I took it out for a test drive for about 1 1/2 hours with the refrigerator and inverter on. How do I check the green box?Ī little more trivia. I know the relay works with the aux power switch. Pretty simple system but a little complicated as to how it works. If you push the combiner switch on the inside, then the switch activates, then the relay is ok, need to start checking the green diode box, if that is ok, the three square relays that shows battery isolation in the middle need to be tested, if all three of these are good then the wire on top needs to be traced all the way to the alternator. The relay in the picture is also triggered by the aux power in the coach to combine the chassis and coach house batteries. The wire that triggers it is within the wiring harness attached to the alternator not the main output of the alternator. Same system that I worked on last fall, the green box supplies the voltage to the relay in the picture to close the relay when it sees current from the alternator. Not sure if I am stepping on any toes by using this thread. I have checked the amperage and voltage at the alternator but don't know where it goes from the alternator. That chassis wire from the alternator is the one I can't find. The alternator is keeping the chassis battery charged while running but not the house batteries with the inverter drawing 36 to 38 amps. I thought this was the "combiner relay" that was used to boost the chassis battery with the house because it clicks in when I push the aux start switch.
The three black boxes to the left of the green box is either transistors, or relays, all three work in conjunction with each other to cause the the circuit to work. I would start with the relay to make sure that it is functioning, if so, then the next place is the chassis wire to the alternator, if no 12 V there while the coach is running, either broken wire or bad connection to the alternator, if not that that, then the circuitry within the alternator. I believe this system is an isolator lockout system, it uses a diode based unit and transistors that actually engages the relay in the picture to engage the charging circuit from the coach alternator when it sees current from the coach alternator, if current is present, this will engage the relay to allow charging while coach is charging. So, at this point I am stumped and would appreciate any suggestions. and Duvac wiring but only a post for the battery connection and no wiring diagram! I have a wiring diagram for the coach and it shows the ign. I don't know if it is also used for the duvac. I found a good 20 a fuse in the duvac circuit and a battery isolator lockout relay but I think that is for the battery isolator relay which is activated by the battery boost switch on the dash and used to combine house and chassis batteries for starting with weak chassis batteries. I checked the voltage on the Duvac terminal with engine off but ignition on and it is showing 12V. The inverter is pulling about 36 amps with the refrigerator running but the alternator is only showing about 12 to 14 amps at 14 volts with the engine at idle so I don't think the house batteries are getting charged. I have tried to find the isolator but the large guage wire from the battery post on the alternator disappears into a mass of plastic wire loom and I have yet to be able to locate the isolator. I am having the same problem on my 2001 Holiday Rambler.
Follow the large gauge wire from the alternator B+ terminal to find the battery isolator. If so, you need to check your battery isolator- may be diode-based or solenoid based. So, the alternator IS charging the chassis batteries but not the house batteries?
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